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Smart Device Energy Cost Calculator
Estimate what a device costs to run from its wattage, how many hours it is on, and the rate on your electricity bill.
This is a planning estimate. Nameplate watts are not always the same as live draw, and the default rate is only an example you can edit.
Your inputs
Estimated cost
- Energy per day of use-
- Cost per calendar day-
- Cost per month-
- Cost per year-
How the calculation works
Electricity is billed in kilowatt-hours. One kilowatt-hour is 1,000 watts running for one hour. The daily energy for a device that is fully on is:
kWh per day = watts × hours per day ÷ 1,000
Cost for that day of use is kWh × your rate. A device that only runs five days a week should not be billed as if it ran all seven. This calculator multiplies daily energy by (days per week ÷ 7 × 365) to get a yearly total, then divides by 12 for a month. That month is an average calendar month of about 30.4 days, not a 30-day shortcut and not 24/7 unless you set hours and days that way.
Finding the wattage of a device
Look first on the back or base of the product, on the power brick, or in the printed spec sheet. Lamps often list bulb watts, not fixture watts. A heater or kettle usually prints a large number near 1,000 to 1,800 W. A phone charger may list 5 to 20 W. If a label shows volts and amps only, watts are roughly volts × amps for a simple resistive load. That shortcut is weaker for motors and switching power supplies.
Some smart plugs report live watts in their app. That reading is often closer to real use than the nameplate, especially for a television or computer that idles far below its peak.
Understanding electricity rates
The default $0.15 per kWh is a round example, not a national average and not your tariff. Residential rates in the United States commonly sit somewhere from about $0.10 to well above $0.30 depending on the utility and the season. Use the supply-plus-delivery figure from a recent bill if you want the estimate to track what you actually pay. Time-of-use plans make a single rate less honest; pick the band the device usually runs in, or run the calculator twice.
Why actual consumption can differ
Nameplate watts are often a maximum or a design rating. A 150 W desktop may draw 60 W at the desktop and 150 W at full compile. A “1,500 W” heater draws near that number only on high. An LED bulb listed at 9 W is usually close. A smart speaker listed at 5 W may average less once it sleeps.
Standby power is a separate, smaller number. A television that is “off” but ready for a remote still draws a few watts. This calculator treats the hours you enter as hours at the wattage you enter. If you want standby cost, enter the standby watts and the hours the device sits idle.
A worked example
Take a 100 W device, 5 hours a day, 7 days a week, at $0.15 per kWh. Energy is 100 × 5 ÷ 1,000 = 0.5 kWh per day. Cost is 0.5 × 0.15 = $0.075 that day. Across 365 days the year is about $27.38. The month, using year ÷ 12, is about $2.28. Change days per week to 5 and the year drops by two-sevenths, because the device is no longer assumed to run every calendar day.
Compare that running cost with what you hoped to save. A lamp at 9 W is pennies. A space heater at 1,500 W is dollars a day. For lighting context see Smart Lighting. Heating and cooling sit on a different scale; start with Smart Thermostats rather than treating a whole HVAC system as a plug-in load.
If the question is not “what does it cost to run” but “what happens if I cut the hours,” use the Smart Plug Savings Calculator. The two tools share the same energy math. The second one subtracts a scheduled day from the current day.